Sacai

Abe began the label at her kitchen table with knitwear pieces sold to friends, building slowly and on her own terms — no outside investment, no trend-chasing — until the hybrid garment became her unmistakable authorship: two familiar classics cut apart and rejoined into something that reads as both at once. The approach has been imitated across the industry, rarely with her precision.

Her collaborations are a genre unto themselves — most famously with Nike, whose double-everything sneakers became instant collector pieces — and in 2021 she was invited as the first guest couturier at Jean Paul Gaultier, splicing his archive with her own logic. Sacai has shown in Paris since 2011 and remains one of the calendar’s most quietly radical fixtures.