Schiaparelli

Elsa Schiaparelli was couture’s great provocateur: the lobster dress and shoe hat made with Dalí, the skeleton dress with Cocteau’s circle, knitwear with trompe-l’oeil bows — fashion treated as Surrealist art a half-century before the industry caught up. Rival to Chanel and darling of the avant-garde, she closed the house in 1954; it slept for decades before Tod’s owner Diego Della Valle revived it at its original Place Vendôme address.

Roseberry has made the revival a phenomenon — gilded anatomical jewelry, measured doses of shock (the sculpted lion-head gowns among the most discussed couture looks of the decade), and red-carpet dominance that restored Schiaparelli to the center of culture. The ready-to-wear shown at Paris Fashion Week translates that couture theater into a sharp, black-and-gold daytime wardrobe.