Balmain

Pierre Balmain called his work “the architecture of movement,” dressing the Jolie Madame era and a client book that ran from Katharine Hepburn to Brigitte Bardot. The house he left is one of the last founded in the golden age of Paris couture still showing on the calendar, now owned by Qatar’s Mayhoola group.

Rousteing’s tenure remade Balmain for the social-media century — the “Balmain Army” of supermodels, gilded embellishment, pop-culture ubiquity — and made its double-B monogram a global signifier. Tron arrives from a different school: his Atlein was built on draped jersey and sculptural restraint, and his Balmain is expected to negotiate between the founder’s architectural couture and the maximalism the last decade made famous.